A Longing for Lewis: Carloway Broch

Perched on a hill, overlooking the township and out across Loch Carloway is an Iron Age fortification over 2000 years old. Thought to be Norse/Viking in origin it has been inhabited across time, still acting as a stronghold in the 1600’s before it was partly destroyed by feuding clans.

Brochs are circular in construction, with a double skinned outer wall and a central living space which would have housed animals in the lower area and humans on an upper wooden framed floor. The heat of the animals and their dung would have helped to keep their humans warm and all would have remained safe from dangerous marauders and extreme weather.

Looking at the surrounding land it is easy to imagine a time when the wilds of the moor were inhospitable and insanely lonely, the harsh winds exhausting wandering individuals, the lack of forage-able food taking its toll along with the never-ending wet peat bog and biting midges. The respite of this structure, lit by fires, perhaps with the sound of music breaking through the whistling Hebridean wind would have seemed unearthly. Evidence of organised farming would have been nearby, raised lazy beds to tame the wet peatland and animal pens housing cows, sheep, goats and chickens. The tinkling sounds of conversation and laughter would have drawn the lonesome outcast, converting their wild instinct with shelter and civilisation. The community of the broch would have seemed like nothing encountered before – in today’s language, like a spaceship landing – a stage of evolution to the hunter gatherer inhabitants of the island.

It remains a beautiful sight some 2000 years on, the strength and skill of its construction enduring across time. While in stretches of peace and good weather its inhabitants would most likely have camped outside, to have a stronghold in wild times would have given great reassurance that their people and ways could be protected.

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